Though meat is the heart of Argentine food with plenty of parrillas, meat barbeques, in Ushuaia, it was the rich pickings from the cold Fuegian waters that called. The centolla, the king crab, is a treat. Sweeter and more delicate than our crab, the best we had was in a Ushuaia restaurant called Kaupe (Roca 470, tel: 2901 422704). In a family home up the hill, Ernesto Vivian, an engineer, decided to cook rather than work for the gas company. He cooked so well, with his wife Tessie serving, that they turned their front room into a restaurant. Ernesto does beautiful centolla salad and sea bass en papillote (wrapped in a parchment or foil package). He wouldn't give me the cheap white wine I chose and insisted on serving his best Rutini.