Ushuaia is a frontier town. Established in response to Chile's territorial interest in the region, it is a speck of a city where 45,000 inhabitants live in a tax-free zone with only a few electronic assembly plants to provide local employment. Everything hereabouts seems temporary -- even the houses are built to be picked up and moved as need arises.

 Amazingly, the city boasts a bona fide five-star restaurant. Kaupe has garnered favourable reviews in both The New York Times and The San Francisco Chronicle. An evening of wining and dining found us concurring with the reviewers.

BILL NEILL -- Toronto Sun